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Island Hopping: A Waste of Precious Time or the Ultimate Hawai’i Travel Hack?

One of the most common questions people find themselves asking when planning their island vacation is should I soak up the experience of one island for a full week, or should I visit multiple islands to see as much as possible? Like anything, the answer depends on what you’re looking for. We’ll get into the “whys” for each island in just a moment, but it ultimately comes down to how you like to travel, and whether or not you think you’ll be making a return trip to Hawai’i! In this blog we’ll outline the pros and cons of island hopping, as well as the reasons to visit, or not visit, each of the 6 largest islands so you can make an informed decision and enjoy the vacation of your dreams.

 

The Pros and Cons of Island Hopping

 

To get straight into it, the main reason why you should island hop is because you don’t expect to ever return to Hawai’i, and you’d like to see as much as possible on your once-in-a-lifetime trip. The other main reason is because each island is so different, and therefore has a unique experience to offer you. Seeing just one island won’t satisfy you if you want a complete picture of Hawai’i, and it’s easy enough to travel between the four main islands (Big Island, Maui, O’ahu, Kaua’i). That’s another point in favor of island hopping: flying between islands will only take you about an hour from gate to gate on the longest routes, which means you can catch an early morning flight from one island, and start exploring your next destination by noon on the same day. On the whole, if you’re interested in seeing a variety of landscapes, geographical features, cultural sites, and lifestyles, then island hopping is the way to go. Every island has something different to offer, so why not try and see them all?

 

On the other hand, there are plenty of reasons why you shouldn’t island hop. The first, and most obvious, is that island hopping requires more travelling, and therefore more time and effort. Flying between islands, even on local carrier Mokulele, means more time driving to and from airports, going through TSA, and waiting to get on and off the plane. This is on top of packing up your stuff at whatever hotel or condo you were staying at, returning your rental car or waiting for public transportation/ride shares, and potentially getting up at the crack of dawn to catch an early morning flight. All this traveling necessarily comes with extra costs, and if you came to Hawai’i for some rest and relaxation, then the stress of additional flying kills the vibe. It’s also much harder to get a “complete picture” of whichever islands you visit, because your days will likely be jam packed with the hottest activities, leaving little opportunity to delve into what life is really like there, and leaving you with a skewed impression. So, if you’re on a budget, focused on truly unwinding, or looking to delve deep into the island experience, then you should probably do your research, pick the island that stands out to you the most, and stick with it.

 

But Which Island(s) Should I Visit?

 

Again, it truly depends on what you’re looking for. We’ll get into the broader details of what each island has to offer in just a moment, but you’ll have a different experience on every single island. O’ahu is urban and bustling, Maui is full of other-worldly landscapes, Kaua’i is lush and laidback, etcetera etcetera. With that being said, if visiting Lana’i or Moloka’i is a priority for you, you’ll need to schedule time on either Maui or O’ahu, as these are the only islands with airports that operate air services to the two smaller islands. Many people prefer to make O’ahu their first stop anyways, as Honolulu has the most direct flights from mainland airports. Now, let’s get into some of what each island has to offer.

Flight times between islands. Flight times longer than 50 minutes mean a layover on another island is required.

 

O’ahu: Urban Island Life, History, Something For Everyone

 

O’ahu, home to the island’s capital and most populated city Honolulu, is one of the most popular choices for Hawaiian getaways, and for good reason!

 

Pros:

  • The beaches are beautiful, and the watersports are great! O’ahu’s North Shore is one of the world’s surfing hotspots, the snorkeling around the island is great, and many beaches are lifeguarded.
  • It’s a doable vacation if you’re on a budget. Because Honolulu is a big city, you’ll be able to find everything from high-end resorts, to surprisingly affordable beachfront high-rise condos. If you don’t have a lot of extra cash to throw around, O’ahu is your best bet for good food, good beaches, and good times that won’t break the bank.
  • HNL airport has the most direct flights from the mainland, which makes it more affordable to get to. Especially from the West Coast, flights can be relatively cheap.
  • HNL offers affordable connectivity to the other islands. If you’re planning to island hop, Honolulu airport can get you to any other island affordably, including Lana’i and Moloka’i. 
  • You don’t necessarily need to rent a car. O’ahu, and especially Honolulu has some solid public transportation options, and if you’re staying in the highly popular tourist neighborhood of Waikiki then you can even get around on foot. You can’t really say this for most of the other islands.
  • There are more locals on O’ahu than any other island, which allows you the opportunity to get a feel for what the Hawaiian lifestyle is all about, and dive into the culture of Hawai’i with incredible museums, cultural heritage sites, art galleries, dance shows, and more.

 

Cons:

  • Traffic. Honolulu traffic is famous for being terrible. As one of our cleaners Shaylyn put it: “it’s LA on an island.” 
  • Crowds. O’ahu is the most popular island for visitors, which means you should expect crowded beaches, the aforementioned traffic, a bustling city, and the occasional line to get into a restaurant/coffee shop/shave ice stand. 
  • The urban environment can detract from the beauty of the island. O’ahu is highly developed, which means noise and light pollution, highrise buildings dotting the coast, and all the comforts of city living that you’re used to on the mainland. If you’re looking to “get away from it all,” this probably isn’t the spot for you.

 

Maui: Luxury Vacations, Incredible Landscapes, Whales!

 

Maui is Hawai’i’s second most popular island destination, and has a distinctly more upscale vibe. It’s important to note, though, that many Native Hawaiians are still displaced or rebuilding from the Lahaina fires of 2023. While enjoying this beautiful island can be a once in a lifetime opportunity for many people, we encourage visitors to be mindful of the devastation that occurred here, and respectful of the locals. 

 

Pros: 

  • The ocean activities here are top notch. There are black, gold, red, and white sand beaches to choose from, the reef offers protected waters that are great for snorkeling and scuba diving, boat tours and outrigger excursions abound, and the surfing isn’t half bad either.
  • The whale watching in the channel between Maui and Lana’i is some of the best in the world. During the winter months you can see whales and their calves breaching and spouting, which is truly incredible.
  • If upscale beachfront resorts are your thing, then Maui is the place for you. This is an island of high-end accommodations and fine dining.
  • The landscapes! The hiking here is incredible, and taking a trip to Haleakalā National Park will provide you with views of stark volcanic landscapes, subtropical rainforests, and protected species not found anywhere else in the world. Taking the iconic Road to Hana will lead you past tumbling waterfalls and lush greenery along the coast, before spitting you out at an otherworldly black sand beach in Wai’ānapanapa State Park 

Cons:

  • This is not an affordable destination. Hawai’i in general tends to be pricey, and Maui even moreso. There are fewer budget accommodations here, fewer lowkey dining options, and renting a car is practically required. 
  • The high prices and high end reputation means there’s a much smaller local population, and a much more “touristy” feeling. If authentic Hawai’i (whatever that may mean to you) is your goal, then Maui probably isn’t what you’re looking for.
  • Traffic can be surprisingly bad, and parking incredibly difficult, especially on the Road to Hana and in Lahaina. Though nothing like Honolulu, you’ll need to budget some extra time to get around. 

 

Hawai’i Island (Big Island): Volcanoes, Star Gazing, Fewer People

 

The Big Island is just as the nickname implies: big. It’s larger than all the other islands combined, and has the island chain’s only active volcanoes, Mauna Loa and Kīlauea. Similar to Maui, the geography here is unlike anything else you’ve experienced. 

 

Pros:

  • Active volcanoes. I’m not sure how much more we really need to say. They’re just freaking awesome! You can go on any number of hikes in Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park and watch as new island is created in real time. Not only is this incredibly cool, it’s deeply sacred and spiritual, and should be approached with caution and respect.
  • Stargazing! While there are paid sunset and stargazing tours, you can drive to the summit of Maunakea yourself, watch an incredible sunset, and then stay for stargazing as night falls. Being so high up on a dormant volcano and watching the stars come to life above the island is an awe-inspiring experience. 
  • It’s surprisingly affordable to stay on the Big Island. Accommodations can be found relatively cheaply, and there are any number of delicious local joints to grab a bite.
  • There’s tons of biodiversity. Driving around the island can be an activity in and of itself, and you’ll encounter 11 of Earth’s 13 microclimates in one day. It’s one of the most climatically diverse spots on the globe!
  • The term “crowded” definitely won’t apply here. You’ll still encounter plenty of visitors, but in general you can expect a laid back experience that you won’t find on Maui or O’ahu.

 

Cons:

  • Travel times can be quite long. It’s a huge island, and driving between destinations can take hours. If you only have a few days to visit, this can seriously eat into activity time. 
  • The beaches are not the best. Because it’s an active volcanic island, the beaches haven’t had time to erode into soft sand, and are largely rocky and unappealing for lounging and relaxing by the water. If toes in the sand relaxation is your goal, Big Island is not for you.
  • Limited nightlife options can lead to boredom as night falls. If hitting the town is your idea of fun, you may end up disappointed with your time on the Big Island.

 

Kaua’i: Lush Landscapes, Laidback Living, Simpler Times

 

Kaua’i is the oldest, and smallest, of the Hawaiian islands, as well as the least developed of the four major islands. Things move slow here, and most of the island is charming and unpretentious. 

 

Pros: 

  • Kaua’i is an outdoors enthusiast’s dream. From the stunning scenery along the 26 mile Kalalau Trail, the Martian feeling of Waimea Canyon, and the number of botanical gardens and preserves on the island, you’re guaranteed to experience the natural landscape in ways you won’t find anywhere else, even on the other islands. 
  • It’s very relaxed. Kaua’i has a small population, and no buildings taller than a palm tree, which makes everything feel like a slow-paced, small town, which it pretty much is! If true rest and relaxation is what you’re after, there’s no better place than Kaua’i.
  • It’s more affordable than Maui, and there are fewer crowds. Popular beaches will of course be decently full, but you’ll never be fighting for a spot in the sand. 
  • The stargazing is just as incredible as on the Big Island. Dark sky ordinances to protect endangered Shearwater birds make sure that you can see thousands of stars, and even bands of starlight that make up the Milky Way.

 

Cons:

  • It’s less developed. If fancy, new accommodations are what you prefer, you’ll be disappointed here. Buildings and homes are older, and new development is uncommon and slow-paced.
  • Things shut down pretty early. Being such a small island, most bars/restaurants/shops are shut by 9pm. This makes for early nights, and if you’re not the type who enjoys that, you’ll probably end up bored.
  • It rains more than any of the other islands. It takes a lot of water to make a garden, so naturally it takes a lot of rain to make a Garden Island. While it typically stays warmer and drier on the South Shore, rain is a near constant companion on other parts of the island.
  • You’ll need to rent a car. Unless you’re staying in certain pockets in Lihue, Kapa’a, or Koloa getting around the island without your own transportation will be difficult.

 

Moloka’i: Untouched Landscapes, No Crowds, Off the Beaten Path

 

Moloka’i is the least visited island of Hawai’i, and has a bit of a mysterious reputation. Tourism does not reign supreme here, and locals have worked hard to maintain Hawaiian traditions and ways of life. 

 

Pros: 

  • If you’re looking for unspoiled land, miles of empty beaches, and a deep connection to the people and history of Hawai’i, then Moloka’i is the place for you. It has remained intentionally undeveloped, and you’ll get an experience here unlike any other.
  • The living is simple. There’s one hotel on the whole island, a handful of restaurants, and pretty much all of the visitor infrastructure is in the town of Kaunakakai. This makes trip planning pretty simple, and allows for plenty of time for relaxing.

 

Cons:

  • It’s pretty hard to get to, and to get around. Mokulele Airlines, the only interisland carrier that flies to Moloka’i, is notoriously flaky with their service, and if you do happen to successfully make it there, you’ll pretty much have to rent a car.
  • The living is simple. Yes, this can be a con too. With few dining and lodging options, few excursions, and a small population, there simply aren’t a lot of typical “vacation activity” options to entertain yourself with. If you’re not interested in local culture, local people, and the beautiful landscape, you should look elsewhere for your island adventures.
  • There are mixed attitudes towards tourism on the island. While some recognize that the majority of visitors will be respectful, others are deeply protective of their way of life on Moloka’i. If mindful tourism is a new term to you, this probably isn’t the right destination.

 

Lana’i: Catered Experiences, Ultra-Luxurious, Small Crowds

 

Finally, we come to Lana’i; the only privately owned island in Hawai’i. Known for its exclusive resorts, this island is sometimes seen as the playground of the wealthy.

 

Pros: 

  • The secluded environment. Crowds are few and far between, and the lodging options are fairly exclusive. This means no fighting over beach space or for restaurant reservations.
  • Many of the resorts will tailor your experience to your unique desires, and arrange itineraries full of excursions and wellness retreats. This makes for a customizable luxury experience. 
  • You can take the ferry from Maui! The only operational ferry in Hawai’i runs between Maui and Lana’i, which can add another unique aspect to your trip.

 

Cons: 

  • The price can be prohibitive. You don’t get a reputation as the wealthy’s go-to island if you’re offering budget experiences, and the lodging, dining, and activity options all come at a high price point. 
  • There’s not a lot of room for doing things your way. Since the resorts typically help tailor your itinerary, and because activities are limited, this can lead to fairly strict schedules that don’t leave a lot of time for your own exploring, or simply relaxing on the beach.
  • Similarly to Moloka’i, there isn’t a ton to do, especially after dark. Everything is clustered in little Lana’i City, and if you’re lucky there may be a local concert or farmers’ market during your visit. 
  • Transportation can be difficult. While you can catch the ferry from Maui, if you’re coming from O’ahu your only option is to fly. The same flakiness problems with Mokulele Airlines apply here as well, and you’ll probably want a car on Lana’i as well.

 

To Hop or Not to Hop?

 

So, now you’re armed with a wealth of information on each island, and can decide if your vacation allows for multiple island visits. Generally, if you’ll be in Hawai’i for fewer than 10 days we don’t really recommend island hopping, and if your goal is to see all four main islands in one go, you should expect to spend at least two weeks here. Either way, you’re sure to see and do things in Hawai’i that you wouldn’t get to anywhere else, and meet some of the friendliest people along the way. Wherever you decide to visit, be sure to be respectful, and remember to pack your aloha spirit! Safe travels

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From Makahiki to Mele Kalikimaka: How Christmas Came to Hawai’i

If you’ve ever celebrated Christmas on the islands, you know it’s a totally different affair. Kanakaloka, affectionately called Shaka Claus, arrives on an outrigger canoe instead of a sleigh, palm trees get decorated in lieu of traditional evergreens, and Christmas is often a day for family cookouts on the beach. Before the Christian holiday and its traditions arrived with the Protestant missionaries in the 1800’s, though, Native Hawaiians had celebrated with a four-month long New Year Festival called Makahiki. Read on to learn more about Makahiki, the ancient precursor to Christmas and New Years on the islands!

 

Makahiki: A Time of Peace and Celebration

 

Much like the holiday season on the mainland (Thanksgiving, Christmas, New Years), the festival of Makahiki was a time of celebration, community, and fresh starts for the new year. Makahiki means “year” or “new year” in Hawaiian, and the festival honored the god of fertility, peace, and agriculture, Lono-i-ka-makahiki. During this period, stretching from October/November – February/March, war with neighbors was forbidden, or kapu, as was daily labor, and people could look forward to feasts, sporting events, and hula in their communities. 

 

A Hawaiian one-legged wrestling match at a Makahiki celebration

The start of the festival season was dependent on when the star cluster Makali’i (the Pleiades in Western astronomy), was visible from the Western side of each island after sunset. The next new moon after the sighting of Makali’i would begin the Makahiki season, with traveling celebrations occurring clockwise around the islands. A figure of the god Lono, accompanied by Akua Pa’ani, the god of sports, was carried across the island, with his arrival in an ahupua’a (a traditional Hawaiian land division) marking the start of the actual festival. 

 

 

Before Lono’s arrival, ho’okupu (offerings) were made to both local ali’i (royalty), and Lono himself. Once Lono made his way into the

A game of ‘ulu maika (Hawaiian “bowling”) at Oahu’s Makahiki celebration

ahupua’a, though, it was a time of hula dancing, feasting, music, and sporting events for the people. Wrestling, boxing, Hawaiian “bowling”, and canoe races were all common events, as well as lava sled racing on some of the islands. Priests, or kahuna, held important religious ceremonies to ensure a plentiful growing season, and a large ho’okupu was set adrift at sea as the final offering to Lono.

 

On the final days of the festival, the high chief would take a canoe out to sea, and upon his return he would have to ward off spears being thrown at him, reenacting the legend of Lono. The high chief would then make the final offerings to Lono, and the festival would end with a village-wide feast at dawn. While the high chief and high priest would continue religious ceremonies for several more days, for the average people the festival was over, and the carriers would take Lono to the next ahupua’a to continue the festivities. This circuit of festivals would last about four months before Lono finally returned to the West side of the island. 

 

Makahiki Becomes Mele Kalikimaka: Missionaries Arrive in Hawai’i

 

In the 1820’s, the first Protestant missionaries began to arrive in Hawai’i from the United States, which would change the structure of Hawaiian society and the holidays that were deemed important. The missionaries were incredibly successful at imposing Christian values and holy days upon the Native Hawaiians, which meant Makahiki fell to the wayside, and Christmas took over. The first recorded instance of a Christmas celebration in Hawai’i occurred on Kauai in 1786 with the arrival of English sea captain George Dixon, however it did not become a holiday in the Kingdom of Hawai’i until King Kamehameha IV proclaimed it in 1862.  This is not to say Makahiki disappeared completely, though, as it became popular once again during the second Hawaiian Renaissance in the 1970’s!

 

Shaka Claus and Christmas Palm Trees: Modern Christmas in Hawai’i

 

Fabulously festive Christmas palm trees

Like any part of the Western world, Christmas has become firmly rooted as an important winter holiday, even if it looks a little different on the islands! Instead of Santa Claus donning a red suit and gliding across rooftops in a sleigh, Kanakaloka arrives in an outrigger canoe and wears slippers and a Hawaiian shirt. Decorated evergreen trees are replaced by towering palm trees covered in lights, and a cozy Christmas by the fire is swapped for a beachside barbecue. The essence of the holiday remains much the same as when the Hawaiians celebrated Makahiki, though: good food, good company, and eagerly anticipated celebrations to end the old year and ring in the new!

 

 

Whether you’ve already celebrated Makahiki, or you’re looking forward to Christmas and any other winter holidays, the Kauai Kahuna team is wishing you all a very merry holiday season, and best wishes for the new year. Aloha and Mele Kalikimaka!

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Bugs and Other Pests on Kauai: What to Expect and How to Enjoy a (Mostly) Bug Free Vacation

Spoiler alert: Hawai’i is in the tropics, so a completely bug free vacation won’t be possible, but with a little bit of due diligence you can keep unwanted creepy crawlies out of sight and out of mind! Here we’re going to go over common pests you may encounter on island, and ways to keep them at bay. Regular pest control is, of course, the most effective strategy, which is where we come in, but sometimes we may accidentally invite these many-legged friends into our temporary homes. Read on for what critters to look out for, and tips and tricks to reduce the likelihood of an invasion!

 

Cockroaches

A side by side comparison of three cockroach species. Leftmost is the large American cockroach, which has wings. Next to it is the much smaller, lighter brown German cockroach. The third cockroach is the Suriname burrowing cockroach which looks like a small brown bean.

From left to right the American cockroach, German cockroach, and less common Suriname burrowing cockroach.

To start with, we have the illustrious cockroach. A tried and true pest even on the mainland, cockroaches love warm, wet environments like those found across the Hawaiian islands. While they might not be quite as big a problem on the sunny South side of Kauai, they can definitely cause trouble. There are two common species of cockroach that you may encounter on Kauai: the large, flying American cockroach (affectionately nicknamed the B-52), and the smaller, non-flying German cockroach. American cockroaches prefer warm, wet environments that are full of bacteria-laden things for them to eat, which means they’ll typically be found outside in rotting tree trunks and leaves, or inside the home under kitchen sinks and behind rotten floorboards. German cockroaches, on the other hand, will eat just about everything, and are more likely to be seen scuttling around kitchen counters and dining tables. The best way to avoid inviting either cockroach to share your condo is to make sure you don’t leave food out on the counters, especially uncovered, never leave food scraps in kitchen sink traps, and take the trash out regularly. Keeping your space tidy is a big help as well, since leaving things lying around creates potential hiding spots for the roaches. We treat all of our rentals every quarter, so if you see a dead cockroach it means the pest control treatment is working! If you see even one live cockroach, though, let us know immediately so we can schedule targeted pest control to address the issue.

 

Centipedes

Although far less common a sight than cockroaches, you may still encounter centipedes on Kauai, especially outdoors. Like roaches, centipedes prefer dark and damp environments, however they’re much less likely to wander indoors. If you do see a centipede inside, the odds are good that it simply got lost, and would like to return to the outside as much as you want it to! The easiest way to keep centipedes out is by keeping screen doors shut, even when you’re hanging out at home, that way you can enjoy the breezes and not surprise guests. 

 

Spiders

A Hawaiian happy face spider. The spider is a light green color, and has black and orange markings on its back that look like two eyes and a mouth stretched in a smile.

A Hawaiian happy face spider with its smiley markings on display.

Like cockroaches, spiders are a ubiquitous bug, and there are two main species found on the island. One is the garden spider which, as the name implies prefers to spin its web outdoors, and the other is the Hawaiian happy face spider. If you do see a Hawaiian happy face, it’ll be in a high corner of the ceiling, and is probably eating a bunch of other bugs you don’t want in your house anyways! You may also catch a glimpse of the large brown cane spider, which doesn’t spin webs and instead hunts for bugs on the ground. Cane spiders are the most likely to interact with people, but they prefer to run away rather than attacking, so if you see one it won’t be for long. Much like centipedes, the easiest way to keep spiders out is just by keeping screen doors shut, and making sure window screens are in good repair. If you notice any torn window or lanai screens, let us know.

 

Mosquitos

While mosquitos are definitely present on Kauai, they don’t typically pose a huge problem. Especially if your vacation plans include lots of beach days, you likely won’t have much of an issue. Of course, on the North Shore where it’s rainier and the vegetation is denser, your chances of getting bitten are higher, and even more so if you plan on being in the forested areas like those along the Kalalau Trail. Mosquito activity is much higher at night, so if you plan on being outside after sunset, pack bug spray or a lightweight coverup to protect your arms and legs. Mosquitos often get tracked inside when we enter and exit, so making sure to keep doors shut can help reduce the chances of inviting one inside.

 

Gnats

There’s a running joke that every year on Kauai brings a different plague of bugs. If you’ve been on island recently, you’ll know that this year’s plague is tiny black gnats. They pop up everywhere in swarms, and are small enough to slip through mesh window screens. Traditional bug sprays are no deterrent, either. The good news is that they are completely harmless, just incredibly annoying. The bad news is that running into some gnats is basically inevitable. You can greatly reduce their numbers by turning off any unneeded lights that may attract them after dark, and turning ceiling fans on to keep air moving in the room since the gnats are very weak fliers. 

 

Geckos

An image of two gold dust day geckos. Both geckos are a vibrant green color with bright blue eyelids and clustered red patterns on their backs.

Two gold dust day geckos with their bright colors on display.

If you’ve been on the island before, you definitely came across the adorable green geckos with brightly colored red and blue accents! These little guys, known as gold dust day geckos, are actually a huge help when it comes to controlling bug populations, and don’t pose any threat at all. Their diet includes all the other bugs that you don’t want to encounter, and they should be gently escorted back outdoors if found inside your condo. You can sweep the geckos out with a broom or use a plastic cup to trap and release them if their presence is unwelcome, and as always keeping the screen doors shut will reduce this likelihood.

 

Wanting to avoid all these unpleasant critters is totally understandable, but it can also be kind of exciting to be on vacation in a totally different environment from what you’re used to! The natural environment of the islands is one of the things that makes Hawai’i stand out as a destination for visitors, and even the creepy little bugs are an important part of that ecosystem. The next time you visit we encourage you to get curious about your surroundings, and even try identifying the spider before whacking it with the broom!

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Queen Emma Kaleleonalani and the 36th Annual Emalani Festival

The nation of Hawai’i has had many famous monarchs throughout its history, from the long lines of the Kamehameha Dynasty, to the Renaissance King Kalākaua. Almost as powerful as the ali’i (royalty) on the throne, however, were the wives at their side. One such woman, Queen Emma Kaleleonālani, the wife of Kamehameha IV, rose to prominence as a champion of the Hawaiian people, particularly Hawaiian women and the poor. Now, every year on Kauai’s South Shore a festival is held in her honor, and to commemorate the historic journey Queen Emma took to Koke’e in 1871 while grieving the loss of her husband and child. Read on to learn more about this powerful figure, and to find out more about the Eō e Emalani Festival!

 

From Emma to Emalani: the Queen’s Early Life and Rise to Prominence

 

Queen Emma and King Kamehameha IV

Even from the time of her birth in 1836, Emma, or Emalani (Royal Emma) as she was often called, was an important person to the upper castes of Hawaiian society. Born to a high chief and chiefess, and adopted into the family of high chiefess Grace Kamaʻikuʻi Young Rooke and physician Thomas Rooke, Emma was raised in high society, and attended the Royal School with other children of Hawaiian ali’i. Her classmates included her future husband and king of Hawai’i, Alexander Liholiho, as well as future king and queen David Kalākaua and Liliʻuokalani. Even though Emma was the great-grandniece of Kamehameha I, because her heritage was mixed Hawaiian and British, some thought her unfit to marry King Kamehameha IV. Nonetheless the two were wed in a happy ceremony, and two years later they had their only son, Prince Albert Edward Kamehameha. 

 

A Champion of the People: The Queen’s Hospital and School for Girls

 

While Kamehameha IV was alive, Queen Emma undertook two significant projects to help her people. The first was Queen’s Hospital in Honolulu, now known as the Queen’s Medical Center. Inspired by her adoptive father’s work as a physician, and further pushed by the growing number of Native Hawaiians dying due to foreign diseases like smallpox, Emma and Kamehameha campaigned door-to-door for donations for the establishment of a public hospital, and in 1859 the Queen’s Hospital was opened to “protect the Hawaiian race”. The hospital offered free healthcare services to poor Hawaiians, most notably free smallpox vaccines, and Queen Emma was said to have visited most every day she was in Honolulu. Queen’s Medical Center remains a world-renowned hospital, and a continuous pillar of financial support for Native Hawaiian health programs. 

 

Emma’s other humanitarian undertaking was the establishment of St. Andrew’s Priory school for girls in 1867. Although Emma was rigorously schooled at the American-style Royal School, this was a privilege afforded to her only due to her status as royalty. In broader Hawaiian society, it was typical that only boys were allowed to attend schools, and Queen Emma sought to rectify this by establishing an all-girls school that would provide a high quality education like that of the boys’ schools. After traveling to England to seek the counsel of the Archbishop of Canterbury, Emma returned to Hawai’i with the Sisters of the Church of England, and the school was opened on Ascension Day in 1867. Like the Queen’s Hospital, St. Andrew’s is still operational to this day, and continues to offer high quality education for the young girls of Hawai’i. 

 

The Loss of Kamehameha IV, Prince Albert Edward, and Emma’s Journey to Kaua’i

 

Emma Kaleleonālani in traditional widower’s weeds after the death of her husband Kamehameha IV

Despite the happy marriage between Emma and Kamehameha IV, their son Albert Edward fell seriously ill and died in 1862 at just 4 years old. Both parents were grief-stricken, and Queen Emma came to be known as Kaleleokalani, meaning “the flight of the heavenly chief” in remembrance of her son. King Kamehameha IV became severely depressed due to the loss of his son, and considered abdicating the throne to mourn in peace with his wife. Unfortunately, his depression over the loss of his son led to his worsening health, and in 1863 King Kamehameha IV died at just 29 years old. Now grieving the loss of both husband and child, Queen Emma once again changed her name to Kaleleonālani, “the flight of the heavenly chiefs”, to honor both Kamehameha and Albert Edward. Although she was just 27, Kaleleonālani would not remarry, nor have any more children. 

 

After several years spent traveling the world for personal and religious purposes, Emma Kaleleonālani came to Kaua’i in December of 1870 to heal her wounded soul. She resided in a humble cottage in Lawai on the South Shore, and spent her time tending to her beautiful and extensive garden, and walking by the bluffs in solitude. In January of 1871, wishing to see the beautiful Kilohana of Hanalei (a breathtaking viewpoint of Hanalei town and the Pacific Ocean from the mountain cliffs), Queen Emma set off with her guide Kaluahi and a party of about 100. Starting in Waimea, and continuing through Koke’e and the Alakai Swamp, the group trekked for two days, with Emma keeping spirits high through chants and hula performances the whole time. When they returned from the journey, the Queen was celebrated with a grand luau, which served as the inspiration for today’s Emalani Festival!

 

10 years later, in 1882, Emma Kaleleonālani would again return to Kaua’i, this time to climb to the top of Mauna Kea, the highest and most sacred mountain on Kaua’i. At the top was a spring fed lake, called Wai’au, believed to have sacred, life-giving waters, where Queen Emma swam before beginning the grueling descent back down the mountain. Although her 1871 trip to the Kilohana of Hanalei was met with more fanfare, the symbolism of Queen Emma climbing the sacred peak inspired no less than 8 meles (chants/poems) to be composed. 

 

The Annual Emalani Festival

 

A previous “Queen Emma” arriving at the Festival on horseback.

Since 1988, to honor Queen Emma Kaleleonālani’s first journey to Kaua’i, an annual Emalani Festival has been held in November. Each year people are chosen to represent Queen Emma, her guide Kaluahi, and her attendants, and many hālau (groups or schools) are invited to perform in her honor, much like the original grand luau that was held. Performances include traditional Hawaiian music, chants, and dances, and there is traditional Hawaiian food, lei making, and exhibits available for attendees. Each festival, Queen Emma and her entourage arrive on horseback at 10am, marking the official start of the festivities. From there the hālau will perform in her honor and, as is customary, the Queen may offer a dance of her own in thanks. This beautiful and interesting event is an opportunity to witness the recreation of a historical event, try some genuine Hawaiian cuisine, and witness traditional Hawaiian ceremonial protocol. Attendance is free for all, and the Festival will take place Saturday, November 2nd 2024, from 9am to 4pm in Koke’e State Park. You can park at the Kekaha Neighborhood Center and follow the signs to the Festival from there! For more information you can click here or here. Although the bulletin is several years old, we found the program for the 2020 virtual event to be quite interesting when putting this blog post together. If you’d like to look over it, you can do so here.

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State Parks on the Garden Isle

State Parks on the Garden Isle: What to See, What to Do, What’s the Deal with the Kalalau Trail

 

On an island known for its incredible natural landscape – lush mountains, sheer cliffs, giant canyons – it’s no surprise that there are 5 state parks on our little island! Although many tourists come to Kauai looking for rest and relaxation, for the outdoor inclined it’s practically a playground. With tons of hiking trails, campsites, and once in a lifetime views, we recommend paying a visit to at least one of the parks to take in some incredible scenery. Here you can find a quick overview of what each park has to offer, including a (non exhaustive) guide to hiking the Kalalau Trail. We’ll also be touching on the developing Norovirus situation along the Kalalau Trail. As of October 1, 2024 the trail has reopened to allow visitors. 

 

Kauai’s State Parks

 

Polihale State Park (West Side)

 

The beautiful Polihale Beach. Take in the great views of the towering mountains and soft sand dunes.

Braving a 5 mile stretch of unpaved, deeply rutted dirt road ends with the reward of a beautiful, peaceful stretch of beach backed by 100ft sand dunes. Polihale Beach Park also offers incredible views of the Nā Pali coastline, and swimming when the water is calm during the summer months. Be advised, there are strong rip currents just off shore and you should exercise caution before entering the water. The shore fishing, however, is spectacular. The huge stretch of unshaded beach can get very hot during the day, so be sure to bring plenty of water, and a picnic lunch if you’ll be there for an extended amount of time. Currently camping is not allowed on the beach, and most rental car companies prohibit you from driving on the unpaved and often muddy road, especially if the car is not 4WD. If you can make it work, though, Polihale Beach Park is a great place to spend the day walking along the beach and taking in some wonderful views, especially since there’s no entrance fee!

 

Wailua River State Park

 

The incredible Boston sword ferns at Fern Grotto.

The Wailua River is the only navigable waterway for anything larger than a kayak, and is steeped in centuries of history and culture. Wailua was the seat of power for Kauai’s ali’i (Hawaiian royalty) for over 500 years, and remnants of the kingdom of Kauai can still be seen along the Wailua Heritage Trail. One of these sites is the popular Fern Grotto, known as Ma’ama’akualono to the ancient Hawaiians. Smith’s Hawaiian Luau offers a boat tour to Fern Grotto, which includes onboard performances and hula lessons, and a short walk through the beautiful rainforest. Tours can be booked here, and run about 90 minutes in length. The Wailua River is also great for stand up paddleboarding and kayaking, as well as hiking the path to the 100ft Secret Falls for a refreshing dip in the water after braving the muddy jungle. Guided tours to Secret Falls are available as well if you prefer not to rough it on your own. The beautiful ‘Ōpaeka’a Falls and Wailua Falls are both located within Wailua River SP as well, with scenic viewpoints along Highway 56. Neither waterfall is legal to access on foot, so be prepared to enjoy the views from afar! Wailua River State Park has no entrance fee, and is located just 5 miles from the Lihue airport. This is an outdoor recreation park only, with no campsites available. 

 

Waimea Canyon State Park

 

The incredible Waimea Canyon from one of the lookout points. Go early in the day before the clouds roll in!

Maybe the most well-known park in Kauai, Waimea Canyon State Park is all about, you guessed it, Waimea Canyon! Often called the “Grand Canyon of the Pacific” Waimea Canyon is an incredible sight: 10 miles long and up to 3,000 feet deep, the canyon is outlined by exposed basalt rock that has weathered to a deep and vibrant red color, giving the canyon its name (Waimea means “reddish waters” in Hawaiian, an allusion to the red tinge flowing water takes on from the soil). Located on the West Side of the island, you’ll find plenty of scenic outlooks to take in the sights of the Canyon, as well as plenty of hiking trails with varying difficulty levels. The Iliau Nature Loop (.3 miles, very easy), and the Canyon Trail (2 miles, moderate) are both great options for a quicker, less strenuous hike. The Iliau Loop is great for birding and examining native flora, while the Canyon Trail provides spectacular cliffside views of Waimea Canyon. You might even encounter some mountain goats on your hike! There are three separate official lookout points along the road through Waimea Canyon, each one offering a different perspective on the marvel in front of you, but the first Waimea Canyon Lookout is by far the most popular. Don’t sleep on the other two, though, or the scenic overviews in the adjacent Koke’e Park either! There is no camping in Waimea Canyon SP, for that you’ll need to continue up the winding road to Kōke’e SP. The entrance fee is currently $5/person, with an additional $10 fee per vehicle, but this cost covers entrance to both Waimea Canyon and Kōke’e State Parks. Children 3 and under are free. 

 

Kōke’e State Park

 

Kalalau Lookout at Kōke’e State Park. You can look straight down the palis to the ocean.

At the end of the winding road that takes you through Waimea Canyon SP, you’ll come to Kōke’e SP. At 3600 feet above sea level, you’ll find yourself situated in a beautiful mountain forest, with tons of wildflowers and native birds. There’s truly so much to do in Kōke’e SP, so we recommend making a day of it. Stop by the Kōke’e Natural History Museum to learn about the parks and trails, and browse the souvenir shop, or head over to the Kōke’e Lodge to grab a bite to eat before hitting the trails. If you only have a few hours to spare, the Kawaikoi Stream Trail is a beautiful, winding trail that takes you alongside a mountain stream. Wear proper footwear, though, as it can get quite slippery. For those looking for a more intense hike, the Nu’alolo and Awa’awapuhi Trails are both excellent options, and end with unforgettable views of the palis (cliffs) leading out into the Pacific Ocean. Difficult, yes, but very much worth the effort. If you’re looking to camp out, Kōke’e is the place to do it. There are a number of campsites you can reserve through the Department of Land & Natural Resources website, as well as 12 rustic cabins available for private rentals here, however both fill up months in advance so be prudent when making reservations. Campsite rates are $30 per night, per campsite. You can visit Kōke’e SP without going through Waimea Canyon SP, but we recommend combining the two into one visit, as the entrance fee ($5/person + $10/vehicle) covers both parks. 

 

Ha’ena State Park

 

Ancient taro terraces inside Limahuli Gardens.

The final State Park on Kauai is Ha’ena SP on the North Shore. Ha’ena is another park with tons to do, so budget at least a day here. Just prior to the park entrance you’ll find the Limahuli Gardens & Preserve. The Gardens are an incredible pu’uhonua (place of refuge) for the delicate natural ecosystem of the island, and provide a glimpse of what Kauai was like before any humans arrived. You’ll also be able to see ancient taro terraces, an abundance of beautiful tropical plants, and stunning views of the towering green mountains opening into the blue waters of the Pacific. Guided and self guided tours are available, though we recommend going with a guide to really get a feel for the importance of the area. Discounts are available as well for visitors who arrive on the North Shore Shuttle. To visit Ha’ena State Park proper, you need to have a reservation made ahead of time. In order to prevent overcrowding and help preserve the natural landscape, there are daily visitor limits on Ha’ena SP, and passes often sell out quickly. Passes are available 30 days in advance, but you’ll need to purchase parking passes in addition to entrance passes if you plan on driving in. Our advice? Book the North Shore Shuttle. The shuttle will take you right into the State Park, entrance is included in the price of the shuttle ticket, and you can schedule pickup for a time that works for your whole party. Click here to reserve park passes, or snag your spot on the Shuttle. Once you’re inside the park, you’ll find

Ke’e Beach inside Ha’ena State Park. Bring your snorkel gear, this is one of the best beaches for snorkeling!

yourself at the beautiful Ke’e Beach. Pack in a lunch and spend the day picnicking on the beach and snorkeling in the crystal clear waters surrounded by tons of tropical fish! There are lifeguards, restrooms, and showers available at Ke’e Beach. If you want to strap on your hiking boots without committing to the full 22 miles of the Kalalau Trail, you can follow the trail for the first 2 miles out to Hanakāpī’ai Beach, although you’ll still need proper footwear and plenty of water. Don’t be fooled, though, this isn’t a beach to swim in, as the surf is much too dangerous. Instead you get to enjoy an unspoiled, pristine beach hidden at the base of the mountains. If you reach the beach and have the energy to keep going, you can continue on for another two miles to Hanakāpī’ai Falls, and be rewarded with a towering waterfall tumbling into a cold, refreshing pool where you can swim and rinse off before heading the 4 miles back to Ke’e Beach. The part of the trail that goes from Hanakāpī’ai Beach to the falls is very strenuous and slippery, so please plan and pack accordingly. You do not need any special hiking permits to hike to either Hanakāpī’ai Beach, or Hanakāpī’ai Falls. 

 

The Kalalau Trail

 

For the serious outdoor enthusiasts, the Kalalau Trail is basically the creme de la creme. The 22 mile round trip hike takes you up through the mountains, across several rivers, along the cliffs, and finally drops you onto Kalalau Beach after 11 long miles. The elevation gain, and then loss, is about 6,000 feet, and the weather can be unpredictable, with hikers often slogging through deep mud and swift moving rivers, and occasionally getting stuck along the trail when rivers are too dangerous to cross. Along the trail you can expect steep climbs in slippery

A beachside campsite at Kalalau Beach.

conditions, narrow paths along cliff faces, and river crossings through at least knee-high water; truly not for the faint of heart. It’s an extremely rewarding experience, however, and puts you in contact with Kauai at its most wild, and you’ll certainly make a few friends when you camp out on the beach! Camping/hiking permits for the Kalalau Trail are available 90 days in advance, and sell out basically instantaneously, so you must plan ahead and be ready to reserve right when permits become available for your desired dates. You can click here to try and make reservations; the current rate is $35 per person per night. We also highly recommend doing your own research before you go. We found this guide to the Kalalau Trail to be quite informative! 

 

What’s Going on with the Kalalau Trail Right Now?

 

If you follow the news on Kauai, you will have seen that roughly 60 hikers on the Kalalau Trail have fallen seriously ill since late August. Several hikers had to be airlifted from Kalalau Beach because of extreme vomiting and diarrhea, with many more falling ill once completing their hiking trip. The Department of Health has confirmed these cases to be an outbreak of the highly contagious Norovirus, and the State of Hawai’i has since closed the Kalalau Trail indefinitely in order to contain the spread of the virus. Norovirus is commonly seen in popular outdoors areas, and we expect the Kalalau Trail to reopen relatively soon, but we will update this post with any new information. For any hikers looking to make this trek, keep an eye on the DLNR website, found here, for updates and new information. As of October 1, the Kalalau Trail has completely reopened, with permits being issued for hiking and camping at Kalalau Beach. 

All of the State Parks’ webpages are hyperlinked in the headings for your convenience. For even more information, you can check out this LonelyPlanet blog on the state parks, which we found extremely useful for supplementing our own knowledge.

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Kona vs Kauai Coffee: A History of Coffee in Hawai’i

Among coffee aficionados the Kona coffee name has become ubiquitous, especially when talking about high quality beans. But how did the Kona region of the Big Island become associated with coffee cultivation, and how did Kauai come to have the largest coffee plantation in the United States? Read on to delve into the history of coffee in Hawai’i over the last few centuries.

Coffee’s Beginnings in Hawai’i: A Global Confluence of Interests

The arrival of coffee on the islands can be traced back to King Kamehameha I and his Spanish confidant Don Francisco de Paula y Marin. Don Francisco was an avid horticulturist, and is credited with introducing grapes, pineapples, mangos, cotton and oranges to the islands, along with the very first coffee seedlings on Oahu in 1813. These seedlings did not flourish, let alone survive, however they introduced coffee as an intriguing new prospect for Hawaiian agriculture.

Governor Boki (left)

The next instance of coffee cultivation in Hawai’i came from Royal Governor Boki, again on Oahu. Arriving back on Oahu from a diplomatic mission to England, Governor Boki’s ship also carried Arabica coffee saplings from Brazil, which were planted in land allotments around Honolulu in 1825. These early coffee farms eventually failed as well, but not before coffee had already begun to spread to the other islands.

A Seed is Planted: Kona Coffee is Created

As coffee saplings began to make their way around the Hawaiian islands, the missionary Samuel Ruggles planted the first saplings in the Kona district in 1828. Unlike the earlier Brazilian Arabica coffee trees, however, Ruggles planted Guatemalan Typica coffee saplings. These initial saplings would eventually lead to the establishment of Kona as a coffee powerhouse, and the creation of the unique Kona Typica coffee tree, though not without several more economic and natural disasters. The Great Māhele of 1848 allowed private land ownership for the first time in Hawaii’s history, which greatly expedited the creation of large scale coffee farming operations. Sugarcane plantations were also on the rise at this time, however, which hindered coffee’s rise to economic importance. In particular, Hawaii’s annexation by the United States in 1898 meant sugar tariffs were dropped, and the industry exploded in profitability. Coffee plantations across the islands were ripped up in favor of planting more sugarcane, except in Kona on the Big Island.

Why, then,  did Kona remain a coffee-focused zone? The answer, surprisingly, is the very same

A map showing the Kona coffee region

sugarcane industry that hindered coffee production across the other islands. For starters, sugarcane didn’t grow very well in the sloping hills of the Kona region, nor did it like the acidic, nutrient dense volcanic soil. This meant that while most farmers across the islands were turning to the more profitable sugarcane, farmers in the Kona region were forced to double down on their coffee farms. Additionally, the sugarcane industry brought in an incredible amount of immigrant laborers, primarily from Japan. As these Japanese workers finished out their backbreaking contracts on the sugarcane plantations, they would lease small plots of land in Kona where they would instead begin growing coffee. Not only was the labor easier, but this allowed for the beginnings of financial independence for the workers as well.

Over the next 80 years, through two world wars and the Great Depression, Kona remained the primary coffee production zone in Hawai’i, which allowed it to develop a reputation as a sought-after, quality coffee.

From Ruins to Riches: Kauai Coffee Rises from the Destruction of Hurricane Iwa

In 1982, Hurricane Iwa slammed into Kauai and devastated the sugarcane crops of the Mcbryde Sugar Company. Facing financial ruin and with no crop to speak of, the Mcbryde Co. shifted gears completely and decided to replant, not with sugarcane, but with coffee! This led to the creation of the

Aerial view of the Kauai Coffee Plantation

Kauai Coffee Company, which today spans over 3,000 acres and 4 million coffee trees. Disaster struck again in 1992, with Hurricane Iniki again devastating crops of coffee trees instead of sugarcane, but by 1996 the Kauai Coffee Co. was out producing the entire Kona region on Big Island.

The Kauai Coffee Company is currently the largest coffee grower in the United States, responsible for over half of all coffee grown in the US, and all aspects of production from growing, harvesting, processing, roasting, and packaging happen on site. Although Kauai coffee doesn’t boast the world-renowned Kona coffee name, many coffee lovers prefer the Kauai coffee for its smoother and more mellow taste. This is due to the lower elevation growth in Kauai; coffee grown at higher elevations has a bolder, more acidic flavor due to the harder coffee beans, whereas coffee grown at lower elevations, such as that of Kauai, produces a less acidic, lighter coffee with a broader range of flavors.

The next time you’re on Kauai, we highly recommend stopping by the Kauai Coffee Plantation for a tour and hot cup of Kauai coffee! Located a short drive away from any of our South Shore properties in Kalaheo, Kauai Coffee Co. is a great way to learn about sustainable agriculture on the islands, as well as the role coffee plays in the local economy.

For more history on the origins of coffee in Hawai’i, specifically Kona coffee, check out this article.

For an interesting read on coffee legislation, and smaller roasters taking advantage of the Kona name, check out this Beat of Hawai’i article.

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Summer Wildlife Watch on Kauai

The Hawaiian islands are home to some of the most beautiful, and unique, flora and fauna on the planet. Whether you’re a first time visitor or a seasoned traveler, seeing the wild nene crossing the street, or the monk seals lounging on the beach never loses its allure. Here we run through some of the wildlife you’ll likely see during your visit, and ways to safely enjoy their presence.

Birds of Kauai

Two nēnē, with distinct neck striations visible

Nēnē (Hawaiian Goose)

The nēnē, or Hawaiian goose, is the world’s rarest goose species, and can be found only on the Hawaiian islands; it’s also the state bird! Adult nēnē have black bills, legs, and feet, and black feathers on the tops of their heads. Their necks bear black and white striping while their bodies have chocolate brown feathers tipped with white. Although the nēnē was once on the verge of extinction, numbers have been slowly increasing thanks to conservation efforts. Breeding season runs from August to November, so expect to see increased goose activity during your late summer trips! You can see nēnē at the Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge, or in any other large grassy area on the island; it’s not uncommon to see a family of nēnē crossing the road either, so be sure to drive slowly and carefully! It’s technically illegal to feed the nēnē, and we don’t want the wild birds to become dependent on human food sources, so please enjoy them from afar.

Ae’o (Hawaiian Stilt)

An ae’o near the shore

The ae’o, or Hawaiian stilt, is another common sight on the beaches of Kauai. Characterized by its black body, white underbelly, and long pink legs, the ae’o like to nest in wetland environments farther inland and travel to the beaches to feed on small crabs and fish, insects, and worms. Breeding season occurs January through July, with fledglings leaving the nest in early August. Again, late summer is the birder’s paradise on Kauai! Although stilt populations globally are stable, the ae’o, which is endemic to the Hawaiian islands, is considered endangered. Problems such as wetland habitat loss and the introduction of non-native predators and diseases have caused significant population decline in recent years. The Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge is a great location to view the ae’o which, like the nēnē, are best enjoyed from a distance for their safety and continued survival.

‘A’o (Newell’s Shearwater)

The ‘a’o, not to be confused with the ae’o, is also known as either Newell’s shearwater, or the Hawaiian shearwater. These birds boast a glossy black head and body, with a striking white underbelly, and are considered critically endangered. In fact, Kauai is home to 90% of the remaining population of these birds, with the other 10% residing on Maui and Hawai’i Island. Hawaiian shearwaters are rarely spotted, as they spend most of their life at sea, and during their breeding season, which runs from May to September, they fly to and from their burrows in the mountainous interior of Kauai only after nightfall. From September to December, however, which is when fledgling shearwaters make their maiden voyage to sea, it’s not uncommon to see fledglings lying dazed on the ground. This is because they get distracted by bright lights coming off residential and

A grounded ‘a’o with black and white coloring visible

commercial buildings, and circle them for hours until they fall exhausted from the sky. In order to combat this, from October 15 to December 15 Kauai county runs a dark sky ordinance. Homes and businesses are asked to point exterior lights downward, turn off unnecessary lighting, keep blinds and curtains closed as much as possible, and prevent pets from going outside that may harm grounded ‘a’o. For more information on the dark sky ordinance, and what to do with grounded seabirds, click here for the Department of Land and Natural Resources’ guide.

Moa (Chicken)

Moa, or chickens, are so ubiquitous on Kauai that they’ve become the unofficial mascot of the island. In fact, the chickens outnumber people about six to one! If you’re a repeat visitor to the island you’ve undoubtedly been woken up by the roosters crowing away at dawn, or seen a hen and her chicks

A Kauai rooster showcasing its vibrant coloring

crossing the road. The roosters are usually a beautifully vibrant red color with secondary colors of blue, orange, black and brown, although you’ll occasionally spot a white rooster, while the hens are a more muted soft brown color.  Most locals agree that the wild chicken population rose drastically after hurricane Iniki devastated the island in 1992, and numbers have only continued to grow. The State of Hawai’i recently passed a bill aiming to cull feral chicken populations, though how that will be achieved is unclear. Despite their abundance on the island, the chickens are technically feral jungle fowl protected under the law. Therefore, tourists should avoid feeding the chickens, and enjoy their presence by snapping a picture from a safe distance.

Marine Animals of Kauai

Hawaiian Monk Seal

A Hawaiian monk seal lounging on the beach

The Hawaiian monk seal is one of only two surviving species of monk seals in the world, and is considered critically endangered. Although the Hawaiian monk seals spend roughly 60% of their life at sea, Kauai is very close to their primary feeding grounds, and thus the best place to catch a glimpse of one. The South Shore beaches at Poipu are a favorite haunt of the Hawaiian monk seal, as well as the secluded beaches of the Nā Pali coast, visible only by boat or helicopter. Monk seal birthing season is in May, so the summer months are the best opportunity to glimpse a mother monk seal and her pup. As with any wildlife on Kauai, it is critical to treat the monk seals respectfully. Do not touch a monk seal or its pup, and keep a safe distance away if you encounter one on the beach. If you’re swimming in shallow waters and see a monk seal approaching the beach, slowly and carefully return to the shore and get out of the water.

Nai’a (Dolphins)

A bottlenose dolphin leaping from the water. Note the shorter snout

There are two types of nai’a, or dolphins, commonly found in the waters off Kauai: the Pacific bottlenose dolphin, and spinner dolphins. Bottlenose dolphins are the species most commonly found in captivity, and are generally larger, heavier, and have shorter snouts than the spinner dolphins. Bottlenose dolphins are also much more active during the day than spinners, and will frequently approach boats as they are extremely curious by nature. Spinner dolphins, on the other hand, are known for their dazzling, twisting leaps out of the water as they swim along in pods. Spinner dolphins are much smaller, and typically less active during the day, but

A spinner dolphin twisting out of the water. Note the longer snout

they prefer to swim in larger groups than bottlenose dolphins. Although you can’t swim with dolphins on Kauai, as they’re a protected species, if you take a boat tour along the gorgeous Nā Pali coast, you’re almost guaranteed to spot a few! Dolphins can be seen year round, but are especially active during the summer months from May to September.

Koholā (Humpback Whale)

A humpback whale breaching off the Nā Pali coast

The koholā, or humpback whale, is a breathtaking sight; whether you see one breaching, slapping the water with its fins or tails, or simply swimming smoothly through the water, these gentle giants will amaze you. Adult koholā can weigh up to 40 tons, and their calves are already a whopping 2,000 pounds at birth. Although many people prefer to visit Kauai during the drier, sunnier summer months, whale watching season occurs during the winter, when the whales migrate from cold, Alaskan waters into the warm, protected waters of Hawaii. From December to May you’re likely to spot whale activity off the coast, with peak activity in February and March. During these months, whale watching is best in the mornings when the ocean waters are calmer, although the koholā tend to be more active in the evening. The South Shore Poipu beaches offer a great vantage point for on-shore whale watching, as well as the Kīlauea Lighthouse on the North Shore. And, of course, the most popular option, which is to take a whale watching tour by boat!

Honu (Hawaiian Green Sea Turtle)

Honu resting on the beach

The honu, or sea turtles, are an important symbol of Hawaiian culture, and, like the koholā, are thought to be ‘aumakua (spiritual guardians). The Hawaiian green sea turtle is one of the only reptiles native to the islands, and is considered an endangered species. These gentle creatures are the largest hard-shelled sea turtle species, and can grow to be 300 pounds and almost 5 feet in length! Although they aren’t actually green in color, honu sport distinctive leopard like markings on their heads and front flippers. Nesting season for female sea turtles runs from May to September, during which it’s not uncommon to see a honu resting on the beach, although they prefer the shallow waters just off shore. Adult honu, their eggs, and their hatchlings are all protected under the law, therefore give them a wide berth if you do see one in the water or on the beach, and never touch or approach a sea turtle in any situation. For your best chance at spotting one of these iconic turtles, try snorkeling at Poipu or Brennecke’s beach on the South Shore, or Anini beach on the North.

The abundance of unique wildlife on Kauai makes it an exciting destination for both nature enthusiasts and casual enjoyers alike. Thanks to dedicated conservation efforts and legal protections, many of these endangered species have grown in numbers and reclaimed their natural habitat. However, it’s important as visitors to the island that we do our part in respecting the wildlife, giving them their space, and always cleaning up after ourselves. These beautiful creatures are experiencing continued habitat loss from human development, and even the little things can make a big difference in their continued presence on Kauai.

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Summer Slump: Declining Visitor Rates in Hawai’i

Summer season is in full swing on the islands, and while summer typically sees occupancy rates that rival the winter high season, recent visitor statistics reflect a definite and unusual decline in arrivals to Hawai’i, a trend that is mirrored on Kauai. We’ve been monitoring this so-called “summer slump” and what it means, and while the numbers can be concerning, read on to see why we’re still optimistic about the state of vacationing on Kauai

The Slump in Vacation Rentals

Although numbers continue to recover from the pandemic-era downturn, Kauai’s vacation rental market is experiencing a noticeable slowdown, with fewer bookings and declining occupancy rates. April 2024 visitor arrival rates dropped an enormous 11.5% compared to April of 2023, and 2024 year to date visitor arrivals to Kauai have dropped by 3%, statewide by 5%.. This trend has left property owners and managers across the islands grappling with reduced revenue and increased competition for bookings.

Graph of passenger arrivals to the islands, year over year comparison

State-wide we are seeing a decrease in visitor arrivals, coupled with a shift away from short-term vacation rentals. While anti-short term rental sentiment is not new, this has been a particularly incendiary topic this year with the passing of Hawai’i Senate Bill 2919, which you can read about in our previous blog post, as well as the election of a new pro-hotel president to the Hawai’i Tourism Authority.

As average vacation rental occupancy statewide has slumped to barely more than 50%, hotel occupancy remains strong at close to 75%.  A search performed today (June 11, 2024) on Airbnb showed nearly 600 properties on Kauai with the entire month of July vacant; in other words not a single night booked. In fact, nearly 500 properties have no nights booked between June 11 and August 1.

Screenshot of an Airbnb search for units vacant in the month of July, with 680 results

This is not to say that those properties are all going to remain empty, as booking patterns have shifted so that lead times are shorter and last-minute reservations are more common. It’s another market shift we’re learning to navigate. One way we’re doing that here is by taking advantage of a new integration offered by an OTA (online travel agent) specifically marketing to last minute travelers. Units are offered at a discounted rate, naturally, but this integration provides a dedicated outlet for filling those unbooked nights.

Top industry presences such as Vacasa, Hawaii’s largest vacation rental company, have begun to feel the impacts of this prolonged slump as they recently announced layoffs of 13% of their staff, and a vacation rental inventory decrease of 25% in the last year. While these numbers certainly seem foreboding, we continue to feel optimistic about the state of the economy on Kauai.

Economic Resilience and Consistency on Kauai

Although Kauai is typically thought of as a microcosmic reflection of broader state trends, the Kauai economy functions slightly differently. As a more lush and remote location, Kauai maintains destination desirability that more populous islands don’t necessarily have. For instance, despite the decrease in both April and year to date visitor arrivals, visitor spending per person per day was up 18%, and per person per trip spending was up 18% as well. If this trend continues, Kauai should maintain the consistent economic growth we’ve seen in the years preceding the pandemic. As an economy, however, Kauai is highly dependent on the mainland United States visitor pool… This means that as the U.S. heads towards a possible recession later this year, the Kauai economy could take a hit as mainland tourists struggle to afford vacations.

Navigating the Challenges Ahead

Despite the current challenges facing the vacation rental market in Kauai, there are opportunities for property owners and managers to adapt and thrive. With an increasing number of vacancies in short term rentals across the island, fueled not only by the drop in visitor arrivals, but also by a dramatic increase in the number of available rentals, and a preference shift towards hotel/resort experiences, visitors are going to be more particular about where they stay, and will be on the hunt for a good bargain. Aging units that are not kept up to date have been, and will continue to be, hit the hardest by this slump, regardless of “bargain pricing”. By adapting to new customer expectations and keeping our units up to date, we feel confident that we will continue to rent more robustly than our competitors, retain repeat visitors, and continue to have customers leave feeling satisfied with their vacation.

More Information

For a comprehensive overview of the numbers, we recommend the following websites and reports:

  1. Hawai’i Department of Business, Economic Development, and Tourism’s report on visitor arrivals and spending in April 2024: https://dbedt.hawaii.gov/blog/24-29/
  2. The Economic Research Organization at the University of Hawai’i’s Kauai Economic Outlook Summary: https://kauaiforward.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/23q2_kauaiforecast_1.pdf
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Senate Bill 2919 and the Fate of Short-Term Rentals on Kaua’i

Life in the travel industry is constantly fluctuating. Running a vacation rental business requires keeping up to date on evolving guest travel and spending patterns, but in Hawai’i there are some extra challenges – like remaining mindful of how this $17 billion industry can sometimes overshadow the needs of native Hawaiians, and make affordable housing difficult, or even impossible, to find. The highly controversial Senate Bill 2919 was introduced in January to allegedly help mitigate this growing housing crisis in Hawai’i by giving counties the authority to regulate short-term rental properties through zoning ordinances.  Today, May 2 2024, the Hawaii legislature has approved the bill.

Zoning Ordinances, County Enforcement, and Housing Impacts

Under the provisions of the bill, individual counties have the authority to prohibit vacation rentals from operating in locations that are zoned “residential.”  To put that in perspective for Kauai, virtually all of Princeville with the exception of the One Hotel and Hanalei Bay Resort at one end and the Westin at the other end, is zoned as residential.  This includes such obvious “resort” properties as the Cliffs Resort.  In theory, the County of Kauai could decide that Cliffs Resort vacation rentals and time shares could no longer operate as such.  In reality, this seems an improbable scenario.

Short-term rentals, a la Airbnb or VRBO, started popping up in Hawaii decades ago, and have in recent years exploded in popularity. The last year has seen an unprecedented 30% increase in the number of properties being used as vacation rentals.  Many visitors to the islands prefer the more local feeling of staying in a home as opposed to a hotel, and short-term rentals are more lucrative than long-term leased rentals for the property owners. Local residents have been trying for years to mitigate the effects of short-term rentals on the housing market.  In 2022 Oahu attempted to ban short-term rentals between 30 and 89 days in length outside of resort areas, however a federal judge ruled in favor of the short-term rental owners, and the ban did not go into effect.

Headshot of Hawai’i governor Josh Green smiling.

Hawai’i Governor Josh Green signed SB 2919 into law on May 2, 2024.

SB 2919 is trying to achieve something similar to the previously proposed Oahu ban, while leaving enforcement up to the individual counties, rather than the state. Now counties have the power to phase out short-term or transient accommodations operating in residentially-zoned areas, thereby opening these properties to become housing for on-island residents via long-term renting. The question for our guests and owners, then, is how might this impact the vacation rental industry on Kauai?

How Does This Affect Kaua’i?

The answer to that, it is our opinion that there will be little impact on Kauai. Kauai has had strict regulations on where short-term transient rentals are allowed to operate for the past 15 years. In 2009 the Kauai County Council passed a bill limiting the operation of short-term and transient rentals to designated Visitor Destination Areas such as Princeville, Poipu, and the eastern Kapaa coastal tourism corridor. This bill protected the already shrinking housing available to local residents, while also protecting the main industry on the island, which is tourism. Additionally, legally operating short-term rentals located outside of the VDA’s were able to obtain non-conforming use permits and therefore be grandfathered into the Kauai County bill.  We would expect to see similar grandfathering provisions with SB 2919 as the counties make decisions about how to implement it.

Light blue map depicting Kaua’i County Visitor Destination Areas in red.

The areas highlighted in red are designated Visitor Destination Areas where short-term rentals can legally operate.

The bill says that “transient accommodations uses may be amortized or phased out in residential or agricultural zoned areas.”  What does that mean?  The answer depends who you ask.  Proponents of the bill say it will expand affordable housing opportunities for permanent residents.  Opponents say it will destroy the vacation rental industry and deprive property owners of their rights.  Both probably over-estimate the actual impact the bill will have.  For the other islands, assuming they take an approach similar to what Kauai did, current vacation rental owners who are operating legally and paying their vacation rental occupancy taxes will more than likely be provided an opportunity to be grandfathered in. That’s not assured, of course, and the governor’s anti-vacation-rental rhetoric has done little to calm the fears of vacation rental owners and helps fuel the controversy surrounding the bill.  Conversely an immediate influx of available long-term rentals seems equally unlikely.

So is this the end of vacations to Hawaii as we know them, as those against the bill are predicting? It seems unlikely. Perhaps the rest of the state should look to Kauai as an example of how this kind of regulation can help protect vulnerable local populations while still allowing for a flourishing visitor industry. The “Aloha spirit” many visitors are so eager to experience is what makes Hawaii different from any other beach vacation, and this cannot happen without those who know the islands best and who have their multi-cultural and multi-ethnic roots right here in the islands. Protecting residents’ ability to obtain affordable housing is something we don’t feel threatens the vacation rental industry as a whole.

More Information

For those interested in a deeper dive into these important questions that will help shape the future of Hawai’i, we recommend the following resources.

  1.  The bill, SB 2919
  2. County of Kaua’i zoning maps
  3. Testimony – pro and con – given to the legislature
  4. Original Kaua’i County bill from 2009
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